Spray Painting Furniture - the basics

Applying paint or other finish such as varnish, takes some practice to achieve a professional result. The best method of applying paint is the use of a spray gun. The spray technique can easily be mastered, provided that the right procedures are followed.

 How to spray paint.

Proper spraying techniques are very logical. Some of the basic principles for quality spraying are the following: 

Plan a systematic spraying routine that will reduce waste and overspray.  I start on the underside of a piece of furniture. On a chair for instance, tip it over and start with the legs and the bottom. Then turn it over and start from the top by spraying the back, armrests etc. Lastly spray the seat. Always work from top to bottom and the inside to the outside. Work from the less visible to the more visible areas. 

Make sure that you have adequate light. Keep the spray gun pointed perpendicular to the surface of the wood.  Avoid movements of the wrist. Move the whole arm from left to right.Set your gun to a fan pattern that covers the surface with the fewest passes and the least overspray.  Use a small fan pattern on edges, rails, turnings, and other narrow surfaces.  Use a wide fan pattern on large, wide surfaces.  

Start spraying about 4 -6 inches from the side of the wood, and move the spray onto the wood.  Keep moving at a uniform speed.

Keep the gun a uniform distance from the surface of the wood between 6 and 10 inches.  If you move it too close, you will make runs; move it too far away, and you will have dry spray.  You usually have to hold an HVLP gun several inches closer to the wood than you do a conventional gun. 

Finish your stroke several inches past the edge of the wood.  Make it a habit to release the trigger of the gun at the end of each stroke.  

Make sure that the strokes overlap to ensure even thickness. Also spray each stroke at least two times - one stroke to the edge and back on the same stroke. Overlap each previous stroke by half.  This will give an even thickness overall. 

Avoid spraying to much the first time around. Running of the paint may occur and then you will have to redo the whole process. Rather spray several coats to make sure you have adequate coverage.

Remember, practice makes perfect. Don’t expect to be an expert spray painter after the first couple of efforts.

First spray a test stroke on a piece of scrap to make sure the spray pattern is correct and the volume of air and material is adequate. After spraying a few strokes, stop spraying and stand away and have a look against the light to see if the painted surface is shiny and that it does not appear like a matt finish. If the latter is the case, not enough paint is deposited and it must be corrected by doing one of the following:

Make sure the paint is not too thick and the volume of air and paint release is sufficient.

Make sure the paint nozzle on the gun is open and not blocked by impuities.

Close the paint volume knob and spray to remove impurities. If this does not help, the cup must be emptied and the gun taken apart and cleaned.

 How to mix the paint

Another important skill that is required for proper spraying is the ability to properly mix the paint. In most cases the commercial paints are thick (especially water based paint) and need to be thinned to achieve a good flow of paint through the gun. Mixing takes a bit of practice. Water based paint can be thinned up to 10% or even more. A paint measuring cup clearly indicates the 10% scale and should preferably be used. A spray painter’s ruler can also be used. Always spray a test stroke to make sure that the right amount of paint is deposited.

Paint measuring cup

Most Acrylic paints must be thinned down to get the right consistency (thickness). Depending on the brand of paint you might have to do some experimenting to achieve the right consistency.

After thinning, the paint must be filtered through a paint strainer to remove impurities. There are different types of strainers but the most popular are nylon mesh or paper funnel strainers. 

Tip:

You can make your own reusable paint strainer from the same strainer material that can be bought from a paint dealer. Here is what you will need:

Fine mesh material (obtainable from paint dealers for 20 liter containers)

       Two empty 1 kg yogurt cups

       Utility knife

Take one yogurt cup and cut off the top part about 5 cm from the top.

Take the mesh material and cut out a circle of 20 cm diameter.

Place the mesh over the first cup and insert the cut-off top to hold the mesh firm.

The mesh is totally washable with water mineral spirits or thinners and can be used repeatedly.

As an alternative you can simply take a piece of elastic and secure the mesh over the empty cup.

  DIY paint strainer cup with mesh

DIY paint straining cup

I have been spray paintnig furniture for many years and in my book "How to spray paint furniture" I give details of issues such as the right spray tools to use, the best primers and paints to spray paint furniture, how to spray diferent types of wood and much more. You will also find many handy tips to
make spraying easier.

How to Remove White Rings From Wood

White marks or rings on wooden furniture are caused when cups and glasses with water or coffee are left on the wood. The water penetrates the finish and causes a white ring on the wood. This means that the moisture has penetrated the finish and it must either be gently sanded away without damaging the finish or the water must be evaporated with heat.  When the ring has turned black it is an indication that the moisture has penetrated the wood and the only solution then is to strip the finish and refinish. Here are some suggestions to remove white marks.

Baking powder paste

Mix one tablespoon of baking powder with a teaspoon of water to form a paste. Rub the paste in circular motions over the stain until it disappears. Now clean with a clean damp cloth and then polish with a good furniture polish or antique wax.

 Toothpaste

Toothpaste also has a gentle abrisive action. To remove marks gently rub the spot with some toothpast. Wipe off with a clean damp cloth and apply furniture polish.e You leave coasters around. But some people just won’t use them. For a stronger cleaning power mix the toothpaste with baking powder and repeat the process as described.

 Hot iron

Take a iron and set it on low. The iron must not be too hot and you must be able to touch it with your hand. Take a cotton cloth and put it on the mark and gently press the iron on the cloth for a few seconds. Repeat the process until the mark dissapears. Apply furniture polish or antique wax.

Refinishing Old Furniture - to paint or not to paint?

The term refinishing according to a definition from Wikepedia refers to “the act of repairing or reapplying the wood finishing on an object. In practice, this may apply to the paint or wood finish top coat, lacquer or varnish. The artisan or restorer is traditionally aiming for an improved or restored and renewed finish.” So refinishing refers to both clear finishing that maintains the natural look of the wood as well as painting where the wood is totally concealed. To restore the old finish you have the choice between a clear finish and a painted finish. 

Restored vintage riempies bank

Before deciding whether to paint or whether to use a clear finish there are a number of things to consider.

Does this piece qualify as antique?       

                                                                                               

Sometimes people do not even realise that they have a valuable piece that can be classified as antique. If you are going to paint or refinish a genuine antique piece of furniture, the value will decrease and it will be difficult to get it restored again. It is best to consult an expert and have it professionally restored. 

When can a piece of furniture be regarded as antique? By definition an antique is a piece that has a special value because of its age and style. Some antique dealers regard a piece 100 years or older as antique and most experts will agree that antique furniture date back to the early 1800’s. Most of these pieces were hand-made and natural oils and later shellac was used as finishing material.

To assess if a piece can be regarded as antique the following should be considered:

·         Is the piece hand-made or machine made? 

•  Machine manufacturing only started about 1860. Prior to 1860 joints were dovetailed and usually only a few joints, irregularly shaped, were used.

•     Backings and drawer bottoms were of solid wood. Hardboard was first made in England in 1898 and extensively used from early 1900.

•   The type of finish used will also give an indication of age. Only oils were used and milk paint was the only paint available. Lacquer and varnish is a sign of later manufacture. To test for shellac use a few drops of denatured alcohol. Shellac will become sticky. To test for lacquer or varnish use thinners and it will dissolve the finish.

• The type of wood will also give an indication of age. Furniture before 1700 was mainly made from oak and from 1700 onward from mahogany and walnut.

• The style, especially of legs, feet etc. will indicate age and style. Early English styles such as Queen Anne (1720), Chippendale (1790), or American colonial styles such as Federal (1790 to 1815) have great value and painting may not be the best option.

Once an authentic antique piece is painted, re-stained or refinished it will decrease dramatically in value unless it has been done by a professional. The exception is when an old piece has been so badly run down that you can buy it at a fraction of its real worth and repair it yourself. Painting it will transform it to something beautiful that you can enjoy in your home or sell it for a handsome profit.

In the case of an authentic antique, preserving the original finish should be the aim and should be done as follows:

• Try and keep the antique look. Do not remove all dents and blemishes accept white rings and dirt. Do not try and clean brass fittings with commercial brass cleaners.

• Start by washing the old finish with a mild solution of soapy water. Use cheesecloth and gently rub away dirt and grime. If this doesn’t work try a stronger solution of vinegar and water.

• When it is dry but looks dull, use antique furniture wax to brighten up the finish.

•  After applying the wax, leave for a couple of hours and use a soft cloth to buff the finish to a shine.

Does it have sentimental value?

Furniture with sentimental value should to my mind be kept in its original finish as far as possible. Sometimes, however, you may find that stripping the piece will reveal a stunning natural wood that can be refinished and transform it to its original splendour.

Can the piece be classified as vintage or retro?

Apart from antique furniture, there is also furniture known as vintage and retro. Vintage furniture dates back between 30 and 50 years. Retro furniture refers to furniture of a specific period or style. More recent furniture qualifies as used furniture.

 

Furniture in this category from the late 1800s to the 1960s is well suited for refinishing and especially repainting. These pieces generally do not qualify as antique but the quality is better than most modern furniture. Most furniture in this category has been mass produced but it is generally much more sturdy than most modern furniture. Modern furniture is not made to last because of cheaper materials that are used. 

What is the condition of the piece?

When the item is structurally in good condition but the finish has deteriorated and damaged by water marks, crack etc. it may be a good candidate for painting because repaired finishes may not show up well with a clear coat whilst a painted surface will cover those imperfections.

What will make you happy?

This is probably the most important question. I have had clients that wanted beautiful high quality prestige solid wood furniture painted and no matter how I tried to convince them to reconsider, in the end it was painted and the client was just ecstatic with end result. The reality is that painted furniture has a charm of its own and at the moment it is a hot trend. Painted furniture is in – brown wood furniture is out! But trends change over time and I am pretty sure the time will come when the paint will be stripped again and the original wood look will be back.

Can modern engineered wood be painted? 

With the development of technology, modern materials are increasingly being used in furniture manufacturing. Hard woods are becoming scarcer and more expensive and alternative materials such as engineered wood (chip board, MDF, veneered board) and even plastic and glass are increasingly used. Also Pine wood has become popular in furniture manufacturing. Many of these products are cheaper than solid hardwood and are easy to work with. This type of furniture do not have a great collector’s or investment value and when it gets old and run down, lends itself to painting and recycling and are good candidates for re-finishing. 

Fortunately with modern paints and more specifically water based paints, almost any material can be painted – even glass and plastic.  But when should you NOT paint a piece? Do not paint a piece of furniture when:

•   It has sentimental value and you want to preserve it for the future.

• It is antique and has a commercial value. If you are uncertain, consult an expert or do some research to find out what it is worth before you slap on a coat of paint.

• You want to be like everybody else and have some painted furniture in your house or just to be cool  
•  When you want to preserve a particular style or period.
  
  
  

Restored farm kitchen cabinet

·